Dispatch 3 - The Trek to Everest Base Camp :

April 7:   Everest Base Camp

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In Kathmandu we boarded a small airplane that could seat about 20 people - it was a relief to escape the smog of Kathmandu.  After a steep landing we were on our feet and finally in the mountains at about 9000 ft in Lukla. We trekked for two days past idyllic villages, beautiful mountains, and across many high suspension bridges to get to Namche Bazar, the sherpa capital. In Namche we met the majority of our sherpa climbing team and paid them in advance.
Just outside Namche is where we had our first views of Everest.  From Namche we slowed our ascent rate by spending time resting in various towns. The rest was not necessarily for our weary muscles, but more to allow our bodies to acclimatize to the increasingly high altitude.  At higher altitudes there is less air pressure and consequently less oxygen pressure, so your body must adjust to less oxygen - this is the process of acclimatization. Not only must trekkers and climbers headed intog base camp deal with acclimatization, but they must also deal with intestinal sickness associated with travel in third world countries. Additionally, because the air is drier many people suffer from upper respiratory infections.

For me the trek in was an amazing experience. The combination of mountain scenery, cultural richness, and exercise was enough to more than make up for the minor intestinal and upper respiratory illnesses that I acquired.



The numbers...

5 German style bakeries in Namche - each serving excellent chocolate doughnuts

8 suspension bridges crossed on the way to base camp

12 children surrounded me while flying a kite on the way to Dingboche.



Day by Day:

24 March - Final packing preparations & team dinner at a Nepali restaurant

25 March - Flew from Kathmandu to Lukla, hiked to the village of Phokding at 8,700 ft.

26 March - Hiked to Namche Bazar at 11,400 ft.

27 March - Rest day in Namche.

28 March - Acclimatization hike from Namche to Khumjung (excellent bakery) and Khunde (Sir Edmund Hillary hospital).

29 March - Hike to Thayngboche - site of largest Monastery in Khumbu at 12,600 ft.

30 March - Hike to Dingboche at 14,100 ft.

31 March - Acclimatization hike from Dingboche to Pheriche to visit the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) clinic.

1 April - Rest day in Dingboche.

2 April - Hike to Loboche at 16,100 ft. This town sits next to the Khumbu Glacier.

3 April - Climbed small rock peak behind Loboche in the morning - rest in the afternoon.

4 April - Hike to Gorak Shep at 16,700 ft. Climbed Kala Patar (a hill behind town at 18,100 ft.

5 April - Hike to Everest Base camp at 17,500 ft.

Photo Captions

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The View
The views from the top of Kala Patar (above Gorak Shep). Mt Everest and Nuptse are visible in the background

Paying Sherpas
Eric Simonson (in black shirt) pays sherpa advance at the culmination of our meeting with the Sherpas in Namche

Walking getup
My standard set up while hiking - hat and sunglasses to protect from the sun, a dust mask to keep the dust out of my nose and mouth (and to keep both of those areas moist in the dry air) and my headphones to provide a soundtrack.

Kite flying
The group of Nepali children that surrounded me immediately after I started flying my kite during a lunch break on the trek to Dingboche.

Lukla strip

The downward sloping airstrip in Lukla that we flew into from Kathmandu